I Forgot my Shades
Morning was a tough sell. I had some issues.
When I first woke up, I remembered through the misty pain that we had agreed to meet up at 11 to head for Yoyogi Park, but it was much earlier and once my head was off the pillow, much less enticing. We spent the next few hours putting it off a little more then a little bit more. By about 1pm, we had all emerged, all a little tender and tired. As usual for the group, we wander around for quite a while selecting a restaurant. I want Katsudon, so we go deep into Shibuya, almost to the top and ironically close to Yoyogi Park, which I realize later. After chomping down our excellent food, we leave and hail a cab, which takes 1 minute to deliver us to Yoyogi Park, which it turns out was down the street.
As we circle the park looking for a good place to sit and talk, one of my companions explains that this is the place all the Elvis appreciators and Cosplayers come on Sundays to show off. Sadly, we are leaving and says it is a great shame as the whole thing is an amazing spectacle.

We shop at the base of a massive wooden gate and have an ice cream. Obviously, they don’t sell any ordinary ice cream and we have orange sherbet and green tea. Treats in hand we head through a different part of the park. As we walk gently through the tunnel of trees hidden in the middle of the park, here is a sense of quiet in amongst the deafening chirping. The whole thing feels royal and meaningful. We soon come across another huge wooden gate and take a left, which the sign says is towards the temple. As we round the corner, I can see it.
Like many things in japan, there is meaning and ceremony to what you must do. We head for the fountain, which is a deep basin of water with two dozen wooden ladles on it. You must take water from the spring, pour it into your spare hand, drink a little, put the ladle down and rub your hands together. Once you are cleansed, you head for the temple, and both the approach and the spectacle inside carry a mysterious air of majesty. There is no photography at the alter, and this is where you are free to through a coin into the collection grill and then clap twice before saying your prayer or request. We watch a few Japanese people perform the ceremony, but I regretfully did not do it myself because I felt dishonest to do so without understanding why. I must educate myself…

Once we had paid our respects, we head back out into the main courtyard and over to the prayer tree. None of us can resist doing that though! We purchase our plaques and consider carefully what to write. We hang them on the hooks of our choice and head out of the park and away from the serenity of Japan. One day I hope to take my family there and show them something truly beautiful.
Harajuku Style
Gwen Stefani name checks the Harajuku girls in some of her solo album songs, and you can be forgiven for not understanding what that’s all about. It is a district of Tokyo where young girls fashion is the most densely packed and where small boutiques sell one offs and ideas to push fashion in the rest of Japan and apparently the world. It is basically Japans answer to Camden town, and features a long, narrow alley full of buildings, with many shops on many levels, including the basements.
We wandered into a few of the shops, one of which was just accessories, where I spied some nice Hello Kitty items for my girls. They would love it here as ere is every kind of hair grip and slide with any character or colour you can imagine.
We pressed on through the alley until we emerged in one of the main streets and spotted a tall, round, glass building opposite. We had been looking for somewhere quiet to work so after seeing the word cafe on one of the signs, we wandered in. It was a weird place, with a giant TV in the front entrance, with a kind of EYE TOY game playing on it sponsored by JVC. It showed us creating balloons wherever we walked. The whole building was equally fascinating, with strange interactive art and people selling 2D and 3D TVs. Then, as we ascended the spiral outer walkway, I spotted information about my Japanese phone network provider and realized that this was more like a Carphone Warehouse, selling a large number of different communications and entertainment devices. What a wonderful building it was, and like everything else Japanese, it was very multipurpose.
At the top was a very chic cafe called Wired which proudly offered no wireless Internet, but instead, pay as you go PC terminals. Strange, but at that point, not so logically unusual. We ordered some ginger drinks and set to work, getting in a good 3 hours of quality discussion, allowing the sun to set in the background. As we were kicked out at their 6.30 closing (to match the shop) we looked out of the top window at the neon city below. It never ceased to amaze me how Japanese cities can look so different during the day and night.

We search for a Ramen house that had been remembered from a previous trip, and soon we found it, as it was hard to miss and garishly decorated. Inside I had a pork based dish, which was very hot. The staff were friendly and it was good, but I think we all still felt quite kicked and tired, so there was little more conversation. I ordered a special drink, which I did not realize is the famous bottle with a marble in it thing. The bottle is molded in a special way and has a rubber seal put in the top into which a marble is pushed. When you want to drink it you push the marble in and it sinks into the top of the bottle, but this does something clever. The drink is very fizzy, and in-between sips it seals the lower chamber to prevent any further bubble loss from the liquid. When you lift it up to drink, there is a little recess in the upper part that allows the marble to roll away, letting the liquid out but stopping the marble rolling up into the neck and stopping the drink leaving the bottle all together. Once I figured it out, I enjoyed the small portion of a weirdly bubblegum tasting Japanese beverage.
Outside, and slightly refreshed now, one of my companions says there is a shop I would like, back the way we came. We head there, but in the place it was meant to be is a man sat at a table handing out maps. Amazingly, the shop has moved, and it’s grand opening in it’s new location… Is today!
KIDDY LAND is a chain toy shop with retail prices, but is decked out like a wonderland, with anime characters and stickers on the walls, white floors, Ramps and generally high tech presentation. Think the basement of Hamley’s. I find a little Gundam and some Revoltech, but not what I am after. I buy myself a dust bunny keyring to dangle from my manbag, which I am now very attached to. I cannot believe that I had not had a bag like this before.
Done with eating and looking, we head back to Shibuya on foot and search for somewhere quiet to work some more. We struggle. Shibuya is very trendy, and finding a quiet place to work after 6pm is nearly impossible. Then, we see something which might work out in the form of a Starbucks copy cat at the top of a multistory building. We hit the lift and head to the top floor. We are presented with what looks like the outside of a coffee shop with about 3 customers, and it is only when we get really close to the door that we realize there is no coffee shop; this is a foyer? It is a concert venue. Not joking. This is a whole floor of a building, seating 1000, for concerts and music evenings. It costs to get in and there is a famous Japanese folk band playing as we arrive. This is not what we were looking for, though fascinating. We head back to the lift, losing the will to live, and read the signs for all the floors: TV STUDIO, RESTAURANT, POOL/DARTS.
Hmm? We hits all the buttons. The TV Studio is unbelievable. As the doors open there is what looks like a hotel foyer, with a hundred screaming girls dressed like Sailor Moon. This is a fake TV show you can pay to take part in. Maybe it’s not fake. It was hard to tell. As the doors shut I think we all wished we had the time to find out.
Just as the doors opened on the next floor, we joked that anything could appear behind them. This time it was a misty waterfall, with a huge stone gate entrance which leads to a traditional Japanese restaurant. I mean, this was more surreal. It had a waterfall and a cobbled floor, distant music and a really quiet tone about it. There was a stunned silence. I wish I had filmed it.
Finally, we were presented with the Pool and Darts floor, and instantly this looked good as there was little music and it was quite spaced out. We hired a dart board and sat down to discuss business again. It was a pretty good atmosphere, and I can recommend a round of darts between subjects to any shrewd businessperson.
Time for bed, and we go our separate ways. When we get back to the hotel, I am super tired, but I am also in Japan, so I sneak out exploring. I head towards the arcades I had seen that morning. Finally I find the density of machines I had been looking for and spy some ultra classics and some new things I have never seen. There is a guy playing the old Konami Aliens versus Predator, along side groups of people pushing Yen into SF4. I witness the new Gundam panoramic pod game, which I cannot decipher. I see the famous konami music comeback game Ju-beat and marvel at it’s 2 handed complexity. I see guitar freaks 11 and Drumania 7. This is a place of huge contrasts, but it is amazing to see a place that has a large selection of different machines. I then discover, in the hall of crane machines, a claw device with a NBC Jack Pocket Watch; wanty want. I start putting in Yen. This was a bad idea. I think I spent £10 trying to get the thing, as it dangled annoyingly on the edge. I really wanted it. A lady came to watch me. I had heard that they like to keep customers happy, so if they see them putting in too much money, they hand them the prize anyway. No such luck. I walk away, defeated, hoping that we will meet on the field of battle again later… We never do.
I wander through the Neon streets and drop into the DVD/CD shop and browse the games for an hour. It is about 1.30am. Back in my noisy room, I spend a little time writing this diary before totally collapsing, with power rangers like action fading in my peripheral vision. Go rangers… go…. Snore.